Tuesday: The sun had been getting up later recently. I don't use an alarm clock, so the rays of morning light that usually wake me up are no longer present. I wake up at least 15 minutes late every day. The topic of time is something Americans must adjust to when living in Micronesia. If someone says 4:00, they really mean that you start thinking about leaving your house around 4:00. If you have to make a few stops on your way, no worries-island time!
My day begins with a fresh coconut cut the night before. I sip the electrolyte infused water and make my way to work. Today I'm working on a grant for a trail project. The trail, on the west end of the island, is an ancient stone path that locals use to access their gardens and taro patches. Visitors and us 'wech' folks like to use the trail for recreations and site-seeing. The Tamilyog trail has been awarded a grant from the generous government of Australia. However, the grant stipulates there must be local funding as well. I have nearly completed the grant and spend the entire day trying to track head of departments to sign off on the grant. No one is to be found.
After work, I go with a friend to visit a shaman. The shaman, Jon, is from the outer islands, Woleai to be exact. He was taught by his uncle the way of massage. His technique is used to reset bones, reduce swelling, diagnosis and cure injuries. Using coconut oil, he massages a fractured wrist. He can tell the person massaging before him, wasn't pressing hard enough. He recommends daily massage sessions. He speaks English freely and talks about his day. He is an uncle, a father and a grandfather. He won't accept money; that would be against the cultural laws. His abilities cannot be used for personal gain. I walk back to the car, with a few extra mosquito bites, but a deeper understanding of Yap's complex and profound culture.
No comments:
Post a Comment